Short answer
A hoodie is specified by its fleece weight and knit structure, its rib, its hood construction and its stitching — not by its colour or fit alone. The three-panel fleece body, a double-layered hood and flatlock or coverstitch seams in the seams that get stretched are what separate a hoodie that holds its shape from one that sags after a month. Minimum order starts at 30 pieces per style per colour.
Key points
- Fleece weight is usually given as GSM and is the main cost and feel driver, as with t-shirts.
- French terry is loopback inside; fleece-brushed fleece is napped on the inside. They feel different and cost differently.
- A double-layered hood with a proper neckline tape holds its shape. A single layer stretches.
- The rib at cuff and hem carries the recovery. Cheap rib is where a hoodie fails first.
- Flatlock or coverstitch in the shoulder and side seams matters more than the seam that is visible.
A hoodie looks simple and is not. It is a garment with more failure points than a t-shirt — a hood that has to hold shape, a rib that has to recover, and seams that get stretched every time the garment is pulled on.
Most hoodie problems are not dramatic. They are a cuff that stops springing back, a hood that lies flat after a month, and a shoulder seam that has begun to twist.
Fleece weight and knit structure
As with t-shirts, GSM is the primary specification, and hoodie ranges sit considerably higher than tee ranges — commonly in the region of 280 to 350 gsm for a standard fleece hoodie, with premium pieces heavier still.
| Weight | Character | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 240–280 gsm | Lighter, softer drape | Mid-season, layering, lighter climates |
| 280–350 gsm | Standard fleece hoodie | General retail |
| 350–450 gsm | Heavy, structured, boxy | Premium and streetwear |
| 450+ gsm | Very heavy, outerwear-adjacent | Heavyweight capsule drops |
**French terry** has a loopback inside — visible loops, not brushed. It is lighter, breathes better and suits year-round wear and layering.
**Brushed fleece** is napped on the inside for a softer, warmer face. Heavier, warmer, and usually more expensive to produce because of the finishing.
Both are legitimate. They are not interchangeable, and your sample should be made in the one you intend to order.
The hood
The hood is where most hoodies fail, and the reason is almost always that it was specified as single-layer.
- **Double-layered hood** with a lining — holds its shape, stands up, survives pulling on and off
- **Single-layer hood** cut from body fabric — stretches, lies flat, and does not recover
- **Neckline tape** across the hood opening — stops the neck edge stretching and gives a cleaner finish
A drawcord through the hood hem with a metal or plastic eyelet is a specification decision, not an afterthought. The cord length and the type of tip matter.
The rib
The rib at cuff and hem is what holds the garment together functionally, and it is the most common quality failure in hoodies.
What matters:
- **Elastane content** — usually around 5% for good recovery
- **Gauge** — a finer rib recovers better than a heavy one
- **Stitching** — how the rib is joined to the body, and at what stretch
A cheap rib stretches permanently and the cuff stays down. It is the first thing to go, and it is entirely down to the specification rather than the factory's effort.
Seams
The visible seam is rarely the one that fails. It is the ones that get pulled:
- **Shoulder** — stretched every time the garment is put on
- **Armhole** — stretched by the arm
- **Side seam** — stretched by movement
Flatlock or coverstitch in those areas performs better than a locked machine seam because they allow more stretch. On heavyweight hoodies, the shoulder-to-armhole seam is a common place for twist.
What to specify
- 01Fleece type and GSM
- 02Body, sleeve and rib weights separately if they differ
- 03Hood construction — double-layered, lining specification
- 04Neckline tape
- 05Drawcord specification and tip
- 06Seam types for shoulder, armhole and side
- 07Rib content and gauge
- 08Full graded measurement chart
- 09Pocketing, if any
- 10Whether it is garment-dyed
The common brief that produces a bad hoodie
"Heavy hoodie, 400 gsm, oversized, hood with drawcord."
That specifies weight and style and nothing else. The hood will be single-layer, the rib will be unspecified, and the seams will be whatever the factory defaults to. Every one of those is a decision that should be yours, and each of them is cheap to decide now and expensive to change after sampling.
Where to go next
Frequently asked questions
What is the minimum for hoodies?
30 pieces per style per colour as a starting point. Size range and colour count move the practical minimum, and we confirm yours before you commit.
What is the difference between French terry and fleece?
French terry is loopback — the inside has visible loops and is not brushed. Brushed fleece is napped on the inside for a softer, warmer face. French terry is lighter and suited to year-round and layering; brushed fleece is heavier and warmer.
Why has my hoodie sagged at the cuff?
Usually the rib. The rib needs a high elastane content and the correct gauge to recover. A cheaper rib stretches permanently and does not return.
Does the hood need to be double-layered?
For a hood that keeps its shape, yes. A single-layer hood cut from body fabric stretches and collapses. Double-layer with a contrast or self lining holds the structure.
What GSM should a hoodie be?
Common ranges are roughly 280–350 gsm for a standard fleece hoodie, heavier for a premium weight. The GSM guide explains how to read the number and why heavier is not automatically better.