Short answer
Sampling is the process of making a garment you can hold and approve before bulk production starts. It normally runs in three stages — a prototype to prove the design is makeable, a pre-production sample made in your actual fabric to check fit and construction, and a sealed sample held as the reference for the bulk run. You approve the pre-production sample in writing before cutting.
Key points
- A prototype proves the design is makeable. A pre-production sample proves the specification is right. They answer different questions.
- The pre-production sample must be made in your real fabric — a sample in a different cloth tells you nothing about how the garment will drape or shrink.
- Sampling is quoted separately from production and stated before it starts. It is not a hidden cost inside your unit price.
- Every round is held as your reference file, so corrections carry forward rather than restarting.
- Written approval of the pre-production sample is what releases the order to cutting — not a verbal yes.
Sampling is the part of apparel manufacturing most buyers have the least understanding of, and it is the part that most reliably decides whether a production run goes smoothly.
What sampling is for
It is not a proof of concept for the brand. It is a check on the specification. You are asking two separate questions at two separate stages, and merging them is what causes extra rounds.
The three stages
The three stages answer three different questions:
| Stage | Question it answers | Fabric used | Approve before moving on? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Prototype | Can this design be built at all? | Often a substitute | Yes — shape and construction |
| Pre-production sample | Does this specification produce what I want to ship? | **Your actual fabric** | Yes — this is the garment you approve |
| Sealed sample | What exactly is production judged against? | Same as pre-production | Retained by us as the reference |
**1. Prototype.** Made to prove the design can be built at all, and to let you judge shape, proportion and construction ideas. Often made in a cheaper or substitute fabric because the point is form, not feel.
**2. Pre-production sample.** Made in your actual fabric, to your actual specification, at your actual size range. This is the garment you approve. It answers the question that matters: does this specification produce something you want to ship?
**3. Sealed sample.** One unit is held back, labelled, and kept as the reference for the bulk run. Every inspection during production is measured against it.
Why the fabric has to be your fabric
A pre-production sample in a substitute fabric tells you almost nothing useful. Cotton, polyester and blends behave differently on the body, in the hand and through a wash. It is common to approve a sample in a nice-feeling fabric and be unhappy with the bulk in the one you actually specified.
If you cannot get your exact fabric early, say so before sampling starts, because the sample will need to be repeated if the fabric changes.
What to check on a pre-production sample
- **Measurements** against your size chart, not against your intention
- **Seam allowance and construction** — how it will hold through washing
- **Print or embroidery placement** relative to the garment, not the mock-up
- **Trims** — label position, care label, hangtag attachment
- **Shrinkage and drape** in the real fabric
- **The details you will not be able to change later** — pocket position, placket width, hood construction
The cost of a round
Sampling is quoted per style, separately from production, and stated before it begins. It covers material, labour, trims and any artwork setup for that round.
Repeated rounds are worth understanding rather than resenting. They usually mean the specification was ambiguous somewhere — a measurement not given, a detail described in words rather than drawn. If we think the spec caused the extra round, we will say so, because that is more useful to you than a quiet extra charge.
Keeping the reference file
Every sample round is retained and labelled as your project file. When you come back for a second run — a restock, a colour addition, a different market — we are not starting from scratch. That is part of what you are paying for in development.
Approval
We ask for written approval of the pre-production sample before bulk cutting starts. It is a short, explicit step: you confirm the sample matches what you want, and that becomes the reference against which production is judged.
A verbal approval is not enough, and it is not good practice either. If something is wrong, this is the cheapest moment in the entire process to find it.
Where to go next
Frequently asked questions
How much does sampling cost?
It depends on how many rounds you need and whether we source the fabric. It is quoted per style before any sampling starts, so you know the cost before committing to anything.
How long does sampling take?
A prototype is quicker than a full pre-production sample. The timeline is quoted per style because it depends on complexity and how many rounds you want. We state it up front rather than discovering it.
Can I sample one garment?
Yes. Sampling does not require a production commitment, and a single sample garment is a normal first step before deciding whether to run a style at all.
Do I need a tech pack before sampling?
Not strictly — a reference garment or detailed sketch with measurements can start the process. A complete tech pack reduces the number of rounds considerably because there is less to interpret.
What if I need several changes?
Each round is quoted and approved before it happens, so you always know what a further round costs. Repeated rounds usually mean something in the specification was unclear, and we will say so rather than just re-cutting.